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Asian food cultures and markets · room 3 of 3 · 1935 to 2026

The economics of tuna

The record New Year auction, Tsukiji to Toyosu, bluefin collapse and recovery, and the tuna in the can.

January 2026

The first auction of the year

economicstrade & commercialization

At the first auction of 2026 at Tokyo's Toyosu market, a 243-kilogram Pacific bluefin caught off Oma sold for 510 million yen, about 3.2 million dollars, a record. The price is a publicity event more than a market price: ordinary bluefin sells for a small fraction of that per kilogram.

Why would a restaurant pay millions for one fish?

Illustration: Urbanicity house studio (SI-generated)
1935 to 2018

From Tsukiji to Toyosu

historyeconomics

Tsukiji in central Tokyo was the world's largest fish market from 1935. In October 2018 it moved to a new site at Toyosu with closed, temperature-controlled halls. The move shows how a food market is also urban infrastructure: land, transport, cold chains and public health.

What does a city need to move a market that feeds millions?

Sources: Theodore C. Bestor, Tsukiji: The Fish Market at the Center of the World (University of California Press, 2004); Tokyo Metropolitan Central Wholesale Market, Toyosu
Illustration: Urbanicity house studio (SI-generated)
2014 to 2024

Bluefin: collapse and recovery

biologyeconomics

By 2014 scientists estimated the Pacific bluefin spawning stock had fallen to under 3 percent of its unfished size (estimate). Catch limits agreed by Pacific nations followed, and the 2024 assessment found it had rebuilt above the 20 percent target years early (estimate). Atlantic bluefin has recovered under similar quotas.

What made countries that compete for fish agree to catch less?

Illustration: Urbanicity house studio (SI-generated)
Ongoing

Most tuna comes in a can

economicstrade & commercialization

Bluefin is rare and expensive. Most of the world's tuna catch, roughly 5 million tonnes a year (estimate), is skipjack and yellowfin, much of it canned in Thailand, Ecuador and other processing hubs. A can of tuna and a slice of bluefin sushi come from very different fisheries and price systems.

Why is one tuna sold by the can and another by the slice?

Illustration: Urbanicity house studio (SI-generated)
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