Keeping bees
A hands-on guide to the honey bee colony: the gear, the hive, getting and installing bees, inspections, a Florida and a northern calendar, pests and disease, honey and wax, the rules in Florida, and staying safe around stings.
Grades 6–12 and adults Younger visitors: A day in the hive, a watching-only room for grades K–5.
Students: never open a hive, or stand in front of one, without a trained adult beekeeper. Anyone who has had a serious reaction to a sting should talk with a doctor before working near bees.
The colony and its year
A honey bee colony works like one animal made of thousands. It has one queen, a crowd of female workers and, in the warm months, a few hundred male drones.
The queen
The only fully fertile female. She mates in flight early in life, stores the sperm, and can lay well over a thousand eggs a day in spring. Her scent (queen pheromone) holds the colony together.
Workers
Sterile females that do every job in turn as they age: cleaning cells, nursing larvae, building comb, guarding, then foraging. A summer worker lives about six weeks; winter bees live for months.
Drones
Males with no sting, raised in larger cells. Their only job is to mate with queens from other colonies. Workers push them out in autumn.
Egg to adult
| Caste | Days, egg to adult |
|---|---|
| Queen | about 16 |
| Worker | about 21 |
| Drone | about 24 |
The year turns on flowers. In late winter the queen starts laying and the colony grows fast toward the spring nectar flow. A crowded colony may swarm. Summer brings the main flows in the north and a hot, lean dearth in Florida. In autumn colonies shrink, and in the north they cluster through winter on the honey they stored.
Sources: UF/IFAS Honey Bee Research and Extension Laboratory; USDA ARS Bee Research Laboratory
Gear
Protection
A veil is the minimum. Most beginners add a jacket or full suit and gloves. Light, smooth fabric: bees react to dark, fuzzy things that look like a bear or a skunk.
Smoker
Burns pine needles, burlap or wood shavings to make cool white smoke. Smoke masks the bees' alarm scent and keeps the colony calm while you work.
Hive tool
A flat steel bar for prying apart boxes and frames that bees glue together with propolis.
Also useful
Bee brush, frame grip, a feeder, a notebook or app for inspection notes, and a spray bottle of sugar water for package installs.
Sources: UF/IFAS Honey Bee Research and Extension Laboratory; UF/IFAS EDIS extension publications
Hives: Langstroth, top-bar and Warré
In 1851 Lorenzo Langstroth noticed that bees leave a gap of about 1/4 to 3/8 inch open as a walkway, the bee space. Build a hive with that gap everywhere and bees will not glue the frames down, so each frame can be lifted out and inspected. Almost every modern hive uses the idea.
| Langstroth part | What it does |
|---|---|
| Hive stand and bottom board | Keeps the hive off wet ground; the bottom board is the floor and front porch. Screened bottoms help with mite monitoring. |
| Entrance reducer | Narrows the door so a small colony can guard it from robbers. |
| Deep boxes (brood chamber) | Where the queen lays and the colony lives: usually one or two deeps. |
| Frames and foundation | Wooden or plastic frames hang inside each box; foundation sheets give bees a wax pattern to build comb on. |
| Queen excluder (optional) | A grid workers can pass through but the larger queen cannot, keeping eggs out of the honey boxes. |
| Honey supers | Shallower boxes on top for surplus honey: lighter to lift when full. |
| Inner cover and outer cover | The ceiling and the roof. The telescoping outer cover sheds rain. |
Top-bar hive
One long horizontal box with bars across the top; bees hang comb from each bar with no frames. Easy on the back and cheap to build, but comb is fragile and honey is harvested by crushing comb, not extracting.
Warré hive
A vertical stack of small boxes with top bars, designed by the French priest Émile Warré. New boxes go on the bottom, the way a wild colony builds downward. Less handling, slower inspections.
Sources: UF/IFAS Honey Bee Research and Extension Laboratory; UF/IFAS EDIS extension publications; Langstroth hive patent, 1852 (U.S. 9300)
Getting bees: package, nuc or swarm
| Way | What you get | Good for | Watch for |
|---|---|---|---|
| Package | About 3 pounds of bees shaken into a screened box, with a mated queen in a small cage. | Beginners with new equipment; common in spring. | The colony starts with no comb or brood, so it grows slowly at first. |
| Nuc (nucleus colony) | Usually five frames with comb, brood, food and a laying queen. | A fast start; the frames drop straight into a Langstroth box. | Can carry pests or disease from the seller's yard; buy from an inspected, registered beekeeper. |
| Swarm | A cluster that left its home colony with the old queen. | Free bees and a lesson in bee behavior. | In Florida a swarm may carry Africanized genes and be defensive. Have an experienced beekeeper help, and requeen with a European queen from a registered breeder if the colony is hot. |
Sources: UF/IFAS Honey Bee Research and Extension Laboratory; FDACS Apiary Inspection; Fla. Admin. Code 5B-54.0105 (best management for European honey bees)
Installing a package
- Set up first. Hive level and in place, entrance reducer on the smallest opening, feeder filled with 1:1 sugar syrup. Late afternoon is ideal.
- Calm the bees. Lightly mist the screen with sugar syrup. Bees busy cleaning syrup are gentle.
- Make room. Take out four or five frames from the middle of the box.
- Open the package. Tap the box down sharply so the bees drop, pry off the lid, lift out the syrup can and the queen cage, and set the lid back loosely.
- Check the queen. Make sure she is alive. Remove the cork from the candy end of her cage (never the open end) so the workers can eat through and free her over a few days.
- Hang the cage. Wedge it between two middle frames, candy end slightly up so a dead attendant cannot block the exit.
- Pour in the bees. Shake them into the gap, then slide the frames back in slowly so you do not crush bees.
- Close and feed. Inner cover, feeder, outer cover. Leave the empty package by the entrance for stragglers.
- Wait. After 3 to 5 days check only that the queen is out of her cage. Then leave the colony alone for about a week, and look for eggs.
Sources: UF/IFAS Honey Bee Research and Extension Laboratory; UF/IFAS EDIS extension publications
Inspections
Inspect every 7 to 10 days in spring and early summer, less often later. Choose a warm, calm, sunny middle of the day when foragers are out. Puff smoke at the entrance, wait a minute, open slowly, and work from the side of the hive, never the front.
Eggs
Tiny white grains standing upright in the bottom of cells. Eggs mean a queen was laying in the last three days, even if you never see her.
Brood pattern
Healthy capped worker brood is a solid slab of tan cappings with few gaps. A spotty, shot-gun pattern can mean a failing queen, inbreeding or disease.
Queen cells
Peanut-shaped cells hanging down. Many along the bottom edges usually mean swarm plans; one or two on the face of a frame often mean the bees are replacing (superseding) their queen.
Stores and space
Capped honey, uncapped nectar and colorful pollen. Is there room to lay and store? A packed colony needs another box.
Pests and signs
Small hive beetles running from the light, mites on bees, wax moth webbing, sunken or greasy cappings, bad smells.
Write it down
Date, weather, queen seen or eggs seen, frames of brood, stores, temper, what you added or took. Patterns show over weeks.
Sources: UF/IFAS Honey Bee Research and Extension Laboratory; UF/IFAS EDIS extension publications
A seasonal calendar: Florida (Bradenton) and the north
Florida bees fly almost every month, and the hard season is the summer dearth, not winter. In the north the hard season is a long winter on stored honey.
| Months | Florida (Bradenton, Gulf Coast) | The north (for example New England, upper Midwest) |
|---|---|---|
| Jan–Feb | Queen laying picks up; red maple and early bloom. Check stores, feed if light, run a mite check. Order queens and nucs. | Bees clustered. Lift the back of the hive to judge weight; add fondant or dry sugar if light. Do not open. Build and paint equipment. |
| Mar–Apr | Citrus (orange blossom) flow. Peak swarm season: add supers early, make splits, inspect weekly. | First quick inspection on a warm day. Packages and nucs arrive in April and May. Dandelions and fruit bloom start build-up. |
| May–Jun | Saw palmetto and cabbage palm flows; mangrove near the coast. Harvest spring honey. Watch small hive beetles as heat rises. | Swarm season and fast build-up. Add supers; clover begins in June. |
| Jul–Aug | Summer dearth: little nectar, heat, beetles and mites. Feed if light, give water, keep entrances reduced against robbing, treat for varroa when counts climb. | Main flow (clover, basswood), then harvest. Test for mites and treat after the honey comes off. |
| Sep–Oct | Fall flows from goldenrod and invasive Brazilian pepper. Check mites again. Colonies rebuild for a mild winter. | Goldenrod and aster. Feed 2:1 syrup so each colony goes into winter heavy. Mouse guards on, entrances reduced. |
| Nov–Dec | Mild weather; bees fly most days. Light inspections, combine weak colonies, plan for spring. | Winter wrap or windbreak, top ventilation to vent damp air. Oxalic acid treatment in the broodless period. |
Bloom times shift with weather and with the exact place; use this as a starting map and ask local beekeepers.
Sources: UF/IFAS Honey Bee Research and Extension Laboratory; UF/IFAS EDIS extension publications
Feeding
Spring syrup (1:1)
One part white table sugar to one part water by weight or volume. Thin syrup imitates nectar and spurs comb building and brood.
Fall syrup (2:1)
Two parts sugar to one part water. Thick syrup is stored like honey for winter. In the north feed before nights turn cold.
Pollen patties
Protein for brood rearing in a dearth. In Florida give small pieces the bees will finish in days: leftover patties breed small hive beetles.
Never
Do not feed honey from the store or from another beekeeper: it can carry American foulbrood spores. Avoid brown sugar and molasses, which can upset bees' guts.
Sources: UF/IFAS Honey Bee Research and Extension Laboratory; UF/IFAS EDIS extension publications
Swarm prevention
Swarming is how colonies reproduce: the old queen leaves with about half the bees. It is natural, but you lose the bees and the honey crop. Crowding and an older queen are the main triggers.
- Give room early. Add a box before the colony fills the one it has, especially just before the spring flow.
- Open the brood nest. Move a few frames of capped brood up or to the sides and put empty drawn comb in the middle so the queen has room to lay.
- Split strong colonies. Move frames of brood, bees and food (with queen cells or a new queen) into a new box. You get a second colony instead of a swarm in a tree.
- Keep young queens. Colonies with queens in their first season swarm less.
- Know the signs. Many queen cells on the bottom bars, a crowded box, and bees hanging idle on the front mean a swarm is near.
Sources: UF/IFAS Honey Bee Research and Extension Laboratory; UF/IFAS EDIS extension publications
Pests and disease
Varroa mites: the number one problem
Varroa destructor is a reddish mite about the size of a pinhead that feeds on bees and their brood and spreads viruses. Almost every colony has some. Untreated, most colonies die within one to three years. Check mite levels at least in spring, midsummer and late summer.
Alcohol wash
Scoop about half a cup of bees (roughly 300) from a brood frame, making sure the queen is not among them. Shake them in rubbing alcohol for a minute, then count the mites that fall out and divide by 3 for mites per 100 bees. Accurate, but it kills the sample.
Sugar roll
The same half cup of bees in a jar with a mesh lid and two spoonfuls of powdered sugar. Roll, wait a minute, then shake the sugar and mites out onto a white plate and count. The bees go back to the hive.
When to act
Many guides treat when counts reach about 2 to 3 mites per 100 bees, and sooner in late summer, when the colony is raising its long-lived winter bees.
| Treatment family | Examples | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Oxalic acid | Dribble or vapor | Works on mites on adult bees, not under cappings: best when the colony has little or no brood. |
| Formic acid | Formic Pro, MAQS | Reaches mites under brood cappings; temperature limits matter, and it can harm queens in heat. |
| Thymol | Apiguard, ApiLife Var | From thyme oil; works in moderate temperatures, bees may slow down. |
| Amitraz | Apivar strips | Synthetic strips left in for weeks; mites resist when it is overused. |
| Hop beta acids | HopGuard | From hops; short action, often repeated. |
| Non-chemical | Drone brood removal, brood breaks, screened bottoms | Lower mite growth; used with, not instead of, monitoring. |
The label is the law: use only registered treatments, at the dose and season on the label, and take honey supers off whenever the label says so. Rotate treatment types so mites do not build resistance.
Small hive beetle (a Florida problem)
Aethina tumida came from Africa and was first found in Florida in 1998. Warm, sandy soil suits it. Larvae tunnel through comb and make honey ferment and run. Keep colonies strong, do not give more space than they can guard, use oil traps between frames, put hives in sun, extract honey within a day or two of pulling it, and never leave frames lying about.
Wax moth
Moth larvae chew through comb and leave silk webbing, mostly in weak colonies and in stored comb. Strong colonies defend themselves. Freeze frames for 48 hours before storing them in light and air. Never use mothballs in comb.
American foulbrood (reportable)
A bacterial disease (Paenibacillus larvae) whose spores last for decades. Signs: spotty brood, sunken, greasy or pierced cappings, a sour smell, and dead larvae that pull out in a brown rope on a matchstick. In Florida, report suspected AFB to the FDACS apiary inspector. Infected colonies and equipment are usually burned. Antibiotics now require a veterinarian.
Sources: Honey Bee Health Coalition, Tools for Varroa Management; UF/IFAS Honey Bee Research and Extension Laboratory; USDA ARS Bee Research Laboratory; FDACS Apiary Inspection; U.S. EPA pesticide labels
Harvesting and extracting honey
- Pull only ripe frames. Take frames that are mostly capped. Honey with too much water ferments; a refractometer reading near 18 percent moisture or lower is safe.
- Leave the colony enough. Northern colonies need a heavy box of honey for winter; Florida colonies need food for the summer dearth. Take only the surplus.
- Clear the bees. A bee escape board overnight, a fume board, or a soft brush.
- Uncap. Slice the wax cappings off with a warm uncapping knife or fork; save the cappings for wax.
- Extract. Spin frames in an extractor so honey flies out of the cells. Top-bar comb is crushed and strained instead.
- Strain, settle and bottle. Strain through mesh, let air bubbles rise for a day or two, then jar in clean, food-safe containers.
- Move fast in Florida. Extract within a day or two, before small hive beetles get to the frames.
Sources: UF/IFAS Honey Bee Research and Extension Laboratory; UF/IFAS EDIS extension publications
Beeswax and its uses
Workers make wax from glands under their abdomens and need a great deal of nectar to make it. Cappings and old comb are melted and strained to clean wax, using a solar melter or a pot of water on gentle heat. Wax catches fire easily: use a double boiler, never an open flame directly.
Around the house
Candles, wood and leather polish, waxed cloth food wraps, lip balm and hand salve.
Crafts and art
Crayons, encaustic painting, batik dye resist, and lost-wax casting for metal.
Back to the bees
Clean wax is pressed into new foundation sheets for frames.
Sources: UF/IFAS Honey Bee Research and Extension Laboratory; UF/IFAS EDIS extension publications
Florida rules: registering with FDACS
Every beekeeper with colonies in Florida must register with the Florida Department of Agriculture and Consumer Services (FDACS), Division of Plant Industry, Apiary Inspection, and have an apiary inspection. Registration renews every year by the anniversary date; a late renewal adds a $10 fee.
| Colonies | Yearly fee |
|---|---|
| 1–5 | $10 |
| 6–40 | $20 |
| 41–200 | $40 |
| 201–500 | $70 |
| 501 or more | $100 |
Bees in a yard
Hives on land that is not agricultural (a house lot, for example) come under a Beekeeper Compliance Agreement, with limits on colonies per lot size, a flyway barrier and a water source. City and homeowner association rules can also apply.
Selling honey
Small producers can sell honey under Florida's cottage food law, with a proper label. Only pure honey may be sold as honey.
Help nearby
Manatee County has a UF/IFAS Extension office and local beekeeping clubs that run classes and mentor beginners.
Sources: Fla. Admin. Code 5B-54.010; FDACS Apiary Inspection; FDACS Beekeeper Compliance Agreement (form 08492); UF/IFAS Extension Manatee County
Sting safety and allergy
A normal sting
Sharp pain, a red bump and swelling near the sting that can last a day or two. Scrape or flick the stinger out quickly: speed matters more than method. Then wash, cool and, if needed, take an antihistamine.
Fewer stings
Move slowly, use smoke, wear a veil and light clothes, and work in good weather. A sting releases alarm scent (it smells a little like bananas) that tells other bees to sting the same spot: smoke the area and step back.
An emergency
Call 911 at once for hives or swelling away from the sting, a swollen face or throat, trouble breathing, dizziness, or vomiting. These are signs of anaphylaxis. Use an epinephrine auto-injector if one has been prescribed.
Before you start
People with a known sting allergy should talk with a doctor first; allergists offer venom immunotherapy. Keep a phone at the apiary, tell someone when you are working bees, and never work alone with children nearby.
Sources: UF/IFAS Honey Bee Research and Extension Laboratory; American College of Allergy, Asthma and Immunology